
varanasi · 12 March 2026
Subah-e-Banaras diary
Yoga, mantra and river mist at Assi — the city's public morning before the lanes explode.
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Stories from the ghats
notes from the circuit
from the pilgrimage route
Dawn walks, festival seasons, and river towns — written from the ghats of the circuit.

varanasi · 12 March 2026
Yoga, mantra and river mist at Assi — the city's public morning before the lanes explode.
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varanasi · 11 March 2026
From Assi to Raj Ghat by boat — how to read Varanasi's eighty-four landings as a single geography of faith.
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varanasi · 10 March 2026
The city eats before the sun hits the river — a morning route through kachori, jalebi and the lanes that fuel pilgrimage.
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varanasi · 9 March 2026
July rain swells the Ganga past the steps — Varanasi transformed, dangerous, magnificent, and not for every traveller.
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varanasi · 8 March 2026
Watching Dashashwamedh aarti from mid-river — brass, smoke and a thousand phones lowered for a minute.
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varanasi · 8 March 2026
The steps belong to pilgrims, mourners, and the river — a practical guide to behaviour at Varanasi's most sacred edge.
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varanasi · 7 March 2026
Twelve kilometres from the ghats, the deer park still holds its hush — Varanasi's Buddhist twin and the pause your circuit needs.
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varanasi · 6 March 2026
At the city's fierce edge, Bhairav watches who enters and who leaves — the temple most pilgrims miss and none should ignore.
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varanasi · 5 March 2026
In a Madanpura lane, the shuttle moves and a sari begins — Varanasi weaving as living heritage, not souvenir.
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varanasi · 1 March 2026
Chaat lanes, lassi cups and the smell of ghee before the ghats fill — Varanasi eaten on foot.
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ayodhya · 18 February 2026
Evening aarti at Ram Ki Paidi — where the temple town gathers at the water's edge.
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varanasi · 10 February 2026
Walking the cremation ghat at first light — where the city's noise falls away and the river keeps its oldest promise.
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prayagraj · 2 February 2026
Prayagraj during Kumbh season — faith measured in millions of footsteps.
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varanasi · 15 January 2026
A morning on Assi Ghat before the city wakes — boats, bells and the river turning gold.
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